The history of Cognac – The Early Grapes, Wine and Region

In 1753, one Father Arcère wrote in a history of La Rochelle, “The wines of Aunis was once highly regarded, if in time it has lost its former reputation, this misfortune must be attributed to the poor choice of varieties used”, these plants have impaired the quality of the fruit whilst increasing the yield. It was largely the Balzac and the Folle Blanche which provided the quantity but not the quality. Of course the remark was directed towards the wines which were regarded more favourably than the distilled or condensed wines, later to be cut with water for drinking at their final destination.

However at this time, the trade in brandy was developing thanks largely to the efforts of brokers such as Hennessey, Lallamand, Roux and Augier, who had found ready buyers in Britain and Ireland.

By this time many farmers had seen that growing vines could develop a ready market, and the bois (woods) on the slopes around cognac had been cleared for planting vines. The region is today known as Fin Bois and represents the largest geographical area in the region although not the largest producing area. This was certainly different in 1753 when much of the area had been cleared for agricultural purposes.

However, by this time the quality of the wines from the area around Segonzac was also noted as being “very good” and were fetching a higher price than others, especially those from as far away as Nantes and Bordeaux. This was of course the time when many of the brandy houses were being set up, and the modern cognac industry that we know today was born. But it was to have its problems and over the next 150 years – wars, famines, disease and hardship were to follow.