Calvados really is the finest example of apple brandy so it is a mystery that it isn’t more popular. Traditionally rustic, being based on the common old farmyard apple rather than the noble grape, perhaps it is too old fashioned for the influential trendsetters? And what about geography? Normandy is poorer and more rural than the elitist areas of Champagne and Cognac. The region staged countless wars and its fields are the final resting place of thousands of young men. But the trend is gradually changing. New calvados embassies are opening across the world. Indeed, official figures show that in 2017, 57% of the 6m bottles of calvados sold were exported. Its popularity as a cocktail ingredient has certainly helped. One of London’s most stylish and up-and-coming bars, Coupette, puts calvados cocktails at the very heart of its menu. What is a surprise though is that mixologists are using not just calvados from the top cru, Pays D’Auge, but aged and more expensive vintages too. Calvados is a delicious, versatile and refreshing spirit. It goes well with food, tastes good neat, and can be the base for sophisticated cocktails.