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Why Chill Filter Cognac?

Non-chill cognacPernod Ricard has launched the first Martell non-chill filtered cognac. Chill filtering is a process routinely employed by the larger cognac houses. It is a means of clarifying the appearance of the drink as it forces the spirit and water to mix more quickly and effectively. (The effect of mixing spirit with water can be seen when water is added to whisky as it often becomes cloudy). Young, mass-produced cognacs need to be reduced with water quickly to prepare them for market so chill-filtering is a useful tool – although it is only effective on spirits with an abv of less than 46 degrees. The temperature of the cognac is reduced to between -10 and +4 degrees to assist reduction and a fine absorption filter is also used to take out very small particles. This filtration reduces haziness but also captures some of the esters and fatty acids which are produced during the production and ageing process. Most experts claim that this filtering affects the flavour since some of these esters and fatty acids form into congeners (flavouroids) which add flavour. We do not chill filter at Hermitage Cognacs as all our cognacs are reduced naturally or over a very long period of time.  Take our Hermitage 1917 for example – distilled 100 years ago.

Drinking Cognac at Christmas

Drinking CognacThere seems little doubt that alcohol can, in moderation, be good for you. It has been said that drinking cognac provides a greater benefit than other alcohol and scientists tell us that it increases antioxidant levels. These are beneficial substances that keep harmful free radicals from damaging our cells. According to a study published in “Cardiovascular Ultrasound” in 2008, this sort of damage can increase the risk of clogged arteries, heart disease, cancer and vision loss. Drinking alcohol may also help limit the risk of Type 2 Diabetes but beware, excessive consumption can increase the risk of cancer, heart disease and liver disease. Of course, moderation is the key, excessive consumption of any alcoholic beverage should be avoided.

NelsonBrandy has been around a long time and traditionally has had many uses as it was available in large quantities from the French and Spanish naval vessels.  During the battles, which these navies fought, brandy was often used as an anaesthetic or antiseptic and in one particular extreme case as a preservative.  It is said that a whole barrel of brandy was used to preserve Admiral Nelson’s body until it could be returned to British shores. Hardly moderation but Nelson would probably have been pleased that he came home in a barrel of fine French brandy.

Armagnac’s Back In Fashion in The Americas?

armagnac's back in fashionArmagnac has never been as popular as cognac, or as expensive, but that may be set to change, particularly in The Americas. Quebec’s liquor board, SAQ, reports a 7.5% growth in armagnac sales so far this year compared to 3% growth in cognac. First produced in the 16th century, armagnac was the original French distilled spirit. Not as polished as cognac, armagnac is only distilled once, but it is low-key and laid back and has a really complex, full-grape flavour. This rusticity and small-scale production give it true authenticity which is helping to increase its appeal. An expected shortage of Scotch whisky has seen customers look for an alternative and armagnac seems to fit the bill better than most. At the bottom end it is extremely cocktail-friendly and at the top end, it provides many collectible vintages. Few other spirits offer aged, rare expressions at such reasonable prices and perhaps most importantly, the armagnac industry has room to grow. Perhaps armagnac’s back in fashion and about to come of age?

The Bottle Story – What’s in a Cognac Label?

We are used to seeing unusual designs of cognac bottles and carafes to catch the eye (many of which have been featured here in The Bottle Story) but recently some big producers have taken to using a bespoke cognac label, designed by a well-known artist, to make their products stand out on the shelves. Hennessy, in particular, must feel that their products are in need of a boost and American tattoo artist Scott Campbell has created the latest artwork. Its purpose, presumably, is to attract younger customers who, in the last 10 years, have embraced the tattoo culture and made it the latest ‘must-have’. Another of Hennessy’s labels was designed by the Italian duo, Carnovsky. A far more colourful affair, this was probably commissioned primarily for the American market. Many of the big houses’ products contain young, blended cognacs which can be difficult to differentiate by taste. These labels are certainly eye catching and will probably serve their purpose of making the bottle stand out from the crowd. Here at Hermitage we take a different approach. Our product, its label and packaging is designed to exude luxury but in a classical, tasteful way. We know that our customers buy Hermitage for the fabulous flavours and individuality of each cognac so gimmicky labels that might look good on the bar, or the sideboard at home, wouldn’t only convey the wrong impression, they’re just not necessary.  Take a look at our cognacs here.

Cognac Must Ditch Generic Branding

Recent figures released by the BNIC appear to give nothing but good news for the cognac industry. Record shipments in 2015 saw an increase of 8.5% by volume and 21.3% by value. However, over half of total cognac sales were of the youngest VS variety and volumes of older cognac sales fell. Some of this was undoubtedly due to the ’China Effect’ but there are other factors too. Strict rules on the production of cognac can restrict product development. Regulations do protect traditions but they can also reduce competitiveness. VS and VSOP cognacs often find themselves vying for shelf space with other fast growing spirits, such as rum.

1965 Vintage Cognac

According to Hine’s CEO, there is a need to diversify the product by stepping away from traditional blends and focussing on ‘micro-provenance’. Our own David Baker  agrees, calling for a radical revaluation of marketing tactics and a move away from generic branding to offer greater individuality (See The Spirits Business, 6 Sep 16). He adds that we must be careful not to lose the traditional values of cognac – a sentiment echoed by the Global Director of Courvoisier who said “I don’t think there has been a lot of communication about how cognac is produced …. and why it is worth paying more for it”. Very much our view. Driving sales along the volume market route may provide short-term success but will threaten the uniqueness of the product. For cognac to remain a luxury spirit, a fresh industry approach based on increasing value not volume sales is required – take a look at our cognacs – all have age statements.

The Charente Scene – Autumn 2016

Major Houses Require More Vines in The Charente

Cognac regionHennessy, with sales to America alone of 4 million cases of mainly VS and VSOP a year, have successfully pressed the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC) for an increase of 1% in new vine plantings. This increase is the biggest ever approved by the Bureau and represents an increase of around 800 hectares. The vines are to be planted next spring and will be ready for their first harvest in three years’ time. With yields of around 9.5 hectolitres per hectare (hl/ha) it means that growers will be able to produce a further 7,500 hl of pure spirit. The crop this year looks as if the quality will be high and although there was some hot sun earlier, the quantity available should be up to the current maximum level permitted of 9.5 hl/ha. Good news for the cognac industry in The Charente Scene this autumn.

Scent Inspired by Cognac Aroma

Last month we wrote about how cognac, with its many aromas and flavours, can certainly appeal to women as the same scents are often found in beauty products.  Clearly, we were not alone with this theory; well known television star Sarah-Jessica Parker seems to agree.  She has just released her latest perfume, Stash, after 10 years in the making and happily confesses that it was influenced by cognac and leather amongst other things. An interesting choice but once again highlighting how important cognac aroma is and how it transcends the genders.  Describing the feel she was trying to recreate, SJP obviously felt that a hint of cognac was an attractive proposition.  Not as girlie perhaps as apricots and vanilla, but the more wintery cognac aromas of leather, truffle and cigar box might be more appealing to the female kind than perhaps would have been thought?  If you’d like to make this comparison, try tasting our Hermitage 10 Year Old and Roullet Fransac’s 1970 Cognac:

A Small Taste of Hermitage Cognac Heaven in 20cl Bottles

Hermitage 20cl bottlesThe first 20cl bottles of Hermitage Cognac are being launched.  This new concept has been designed to suit the needs of many; connoisseurs seeking to taste some of our more expensive cognacs but also individuals wishing to buy sufficient for a small gathering such as a dinner party or to avoid waste at a cosy function. These sophisticated and exciting bottles are new to the industry and another ‘1st’ For Hermitage Cognacs. Currently a selection of our cognacs are available in 20cl bottles from Hedonism Wines and our website and shortly we will be releasing the new Cognac Café 20 in this format. Ideal to drink with a late morning coffee or as a ‘digestif’ before retiring, the 20cl Cognac Café 20 will be the perfect accompaniment to any occasion.

Our Latest Vintage Hermitage Cognac Releases

60 year old cognacBrand new on the shelves this month is our latest Hermitage 60 Year Old Cognac. This remarkable cognac comes from the top cru, known as Grande Champagne, and has been aged in oak casks for more than 60 years.  At a strength of 40.5%, it has autumnal aromas including tobacco, ginger and clove. Its flavours of truffle, clove, liquorice, burnt toffee and dried fig with a finish of dried mandarin are perfect for enjoying with a fine cigar or to celebrate any 60th Birthday or Anniversary occasion.

Working closely with our customers, we have established that there is a growing café bar culture for cognacs.  At Hermitage we are the first cognac house to recognise this need and we have perfected the ideal cognac called Hermitage Cognac Café 20.  This rich mocha and roasted walnut flavoured cognac is more than 20 years old and comes from the top cognac cru, Grande Champagne.  During the second half of the 17th century the London “café society” people were experimenting with new drinks. Non-alcoholic drinks like coffee and tea were new but some liked more robust drinks like port, sherry and a spirit from a small town in Western France called Cognac. Today, Hermitage produce a whole range of cognacs with age statements that are aged naturally, with individual flavours, styles, strengths and ages.  Cognacs, the likes of which you will never have tasted before.

Hermitage 1967 CognacWe are very excited about this summer’s vintage cognac release, the Hermitage Petite Champagne 1967.  At 41% abv, this complex cognac has many charming and attractive qualities. It is mature yet youthful and light. There are flavours of wild cherry, mangosteen, toast, muscat, dried fig, allspice and even a hint of turmeric on the tail.  One cognac in a range of nearly thirty, this is a little piece of Hermitage pure bliss.

Massougnes 1801 sold for £222,000 !!

Massougnes 1801There was great excitement in the Brandyclassics office this week as the first of our two imperial three quarter gallon bottles of Massougnes Cognac was sold by the famous London store, Hedonism Wines, for £222,000.  The bottle originally came from Marie-Antoinette des Allees, Comtesse de la Bourdeliere, a direct descendent of Louis VII and Elleanor of Aquitaine and their children, King Richard of England and King John. The Comtesse still lives in the Chateau, on what remains of the Massougnes estate, near Aigre. Cognacs from the pre-Phylloxera era are a speciality of ours. In addition to the last remaining bottle of Massougnes (1805), we have a number of other very old cognacs dating from 1789 to 1893. Our post-Phylloxera cognac vintages range from 1900 to 2005.