Category: The History of Cognac

By 1800 many of the houses that we know of today were becoming established, and their requirement for brandies from the farmers was increasing demand. Coupled to this, the skills in making cognac had improved and a form of standardisation was gradually forming, both in the distillation and ageing process. But very little brandy was sold for keeping and most was intended to be cut with water when it reached its final destination – usually in Ireland or England.

However some producers had realised the benefits of longer ageing, especially farmers who were supplying quantities to the merchants for onward sales in Europe. By this time, ageing in oak was recognised as the way to develop a unique flavour. But it was noted that this took many years and for commercial reasons only small quantities could be kept back, either for the farmers benefit or for selling at a much greater price at a later date.

In early brandies, distillation took place many times to increase its strength. By 1800 the brandies were all double distilled and Richard Hennessey noted that shrewd operators were buying up year old brandies and keeping them until they could get a better price. In 1786 the tax laws were rescinded and the Treaty of Free trade was established, allowing the merchants and producers to become more selective in the profitable UK markets.

Some new names were also springing up – Otard and Dupuy were joined by Hine and all three saw advantage in the British markets by buying from the higher quality Saintonge rather from the south around Bordeaux. This loyalty to the Angoumois was later rewarded as the area’s brandies became known as cognac after the principle town in the region.

Distillation is a simple process, based on the fact that alcohol vaporises at a lower temperature than water, allowing the spirit to escape. When fermented liquor such as wine is heated, the alcohol vaporises and is trapped in the pipe leading from the top of the still, and is then cooled when it turns back into a liquid.

There are a number of problems such as the shape and size of the vessel, the metal from which it is constructed and the quality of the liquid being distilled. Although in early days distillation was repeated on several occasions to increase strength, by the eighteenth century double distillation had largely become the norm. Initially brouillis, a half strength spirit was produced, before being distilled again in what is called La Bonne Chauffe. The stage when the spirit was acceptable and stopped distilling, are further problems to which only very simple rules were applied. Consequently, the many variations at these stages created many less than perfect results.

By Muniers (a well known brandy trader) time, the conditions for producing the best cognac had been well defined. White grapes were used where ever possible, and the Folle Blanche had largely been accepted as producing the best distillation. By 1770 the Cognaçaise had learnt the necessity for acidic wines to aid the process.

In 1753, one Father Arcère wrote in a history of La Rochelle, “The wines of Aunis was once highly regarded, if in time it has lost its former reputation, this misfortune must be attributed to the poor choice of varieties used”, these plants have impaired the quality of the fruit whilst increasing the yield. It was largely the Balzac and the Folle Blanche which provided the quantity but not the quality. Of course the remark was directed towards the wines which were regarded more favourably than the distilled or condensed wines, later to be cut with water for drinking at their final destination.

However at this time, the trade in brandy was developing thanks largely to the efforts of brokers such as Hennessey, Lallamand, Roux and Augier, who had found ready buyers in Britain and Ireland.

By this time many farmers had seen that growing vines could develop a ready market, and the bois (woods) on the slopes around cognac had been cleared for planting vines. The region is today known as Fin Bois and represents the largest geographical area in the region although not the largest producing area. This was certainly different in 1753 when much of the area had been cleared for agricultural purposes.

However, by this time the quality of the wines from the area around Segonzac was also noted as being “very good” and were fetching a higher price than others, especially those from as far away as Nantes and Bordeaux. This was of course the time when many of the brandy houses were being set up, and the modern cognac industry that we know today was born. But it was to have its problems and over the next 150 years – wars, famines, disease and hardship were to follow.