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The Good & Great Cognac Houses – Jean Fillioux

Perhaps the name of Jean Fillioux is not quite in the same league as Delamain or Hine, but whatever one wants to believe they do have a history which can be associated with equally great esteem.

They were founded in 1880 by Honoré Fillioux, who had in the past blended cognacs for Hennessy, a tradition which has continued and which is still the case today. The firm is not large; they own about 20 hectares at La Pouyade at Juillac-le-Coq in Grande Champagne and is run today by Pascal Fillioux. His style is said to prefer well rounded blended cognacs which may include some additives, perhaps through his connections with the Hennessy style. The firm also distils cognacs from two other estates.

Pascal’s skills and experience however, strongly suggest that his families traditions have also been associated with those of ageing, and his knowledge and use of oak is one of the greatest accumulated by any cellar master. His knowledge of different oaks and their relationship on his cognacs is one that can only be created by generations of experience, gained from his family’s deep understanding of the ageing process, the effects of tannins and the formation of congeners in the barrels. Indeed, most of his cognacs are aged slightly longer in new oak than is average. But where dilution is required it is added at an early stage soon after distillation, which means that the effect of the cognac on the wood is less severe than those which are diluted at a later stage.

Whilst most of the Fillioux cognacs are blended, there are two exceptional single estate offerings. The eight year old La Pouyade is a masterpiece of distillation excellence at 42% and more recently a 1990 vintage has found its way onto his list, both exhibit a rare taste of what can really be achieved.

Exclusive to Brandyclassics, Clos des Saveurs armagnac

It is rare for us to get excited about a new armagnac but we feel rightly pleased with our new association with Eric Artiguelongue a notable cellar master in Arblade le Haut, Gers.

Brandyclassics have taken the exclusive distribution for these wonderful Clos des Saveurs armagnacs in the United Kingdom where we will be demonstrating the fine qualities and range of vintages which come from a number of different distillers in the Bas region. Not only are we impressed with the qualities of each individual vintage, but we were also able to bottle them in the traditional basquaise bottle, sealed with red wax. Presentation boxes are also available and a new oval label will provide an attractive but traditional presentation.

Perhaps the key feature of these delightful spirits is their competitive prices. In a world where vintages are increasing in price rapidly, they offer a level of stability over the next few years which other houses will find hard to compete with. This is the first new range of armagnac’s we have been able to offer for a number of years- they are  highly recommended and available now.

Brandyclassics’s range of Clos des Saveurs Bas Armagnacs include some very rare 1900 and 1893 vintage Armagnacs, in addition to more recent vintages.

 

Chateau de Beaulon open their new cellar

Due to rapid expansion, Chateau de Beaulon opened a new cellar in August 2010.

It is difficult to understate the success of Chateau de Beaulon in the last two or three decades. The firm are distillers and the credentials of it’s owner Christian Thomas can only be matched by the superb cognacs he produces, mainly from the Ugni Blanc but also the Folle Blanche and Colombard grape varieties. The Thomas family have reigned supreme around St Dizant du Gua in the most westerly part of the cru for centuries but have only owned the Chateau since 1965.

Cognacs and Pineau have been made there for centuries, but it is only since the Thomas family have been the firms owners that real growth has taken place. Their well balanced cognacs have sold in many countries and a limited number of vintages have helped to swell the firms turnover, thus requiring greater warehousing and storage facilities.

The new warehouse is a truly beautiful state of the art building which bolsters the firms green credentials using gravitational force for storage and bottling. Soft lighting in the main section creates a defining influence of the quality produced from this fourth cru estate.

Brandyclassics sell a wide variety of Chateau de Beaulon cognacs and pineaus, a small selection of which are shown below.

 

 

The Good & Great Cognac Houses- A E Dor

The house of A.E. Dor was created In 1858 by Amédée Edourard Dor, a collector of fine old cognacs mainly from the Grande Champagne area. The cognacs were bought in their casks and aged in Dors cellars until they were deemed ready for drinking and then stored in large bonbonnes, where their quality remained intact.

The house is situated in Jarnac, about 13 km east of Cognac. They have recently moved into a new purpose built warehouse, but they still retain their old Paradis in the town where some of the finest of their cognacs are stored. The Paradis is probably one of the best know pictures in the Charente and its wrought iron gates protect many demi-johns of fine old cognacs. Probably their most venerable cognac is the 1805 (which they refuse to sell), but one of the nicest is the 1840 which still retains much richness and flavour even though it is only 37% by volume.

There have been a number of names associated with the firm including the brother of the ex President of France, François Mitterand, a cognac lover and purveyor of the spirit. The house survives on it’s range of blended cognacs and is today owned by Jacques Riviere, a fervent believer of blending who took over the running of the firm from his wife, Odile.  She was sadly killed in a motor accident in the early 1990s and was regarded as one of the finest blenders in the industry. Unfortunately since then some of the blending has not been the same quality as those of the pre Odile days, but some of the older A.E. Dor cognacs, namely the Hors d’Age No 9 and the remaining pre-phylloxera vintages still remain in the original condition, as well as a remarkably good VSOP, an 8 year old cognac with remarkable freshness. Jacques Riviere is still the firms president but much is now done by his son.

Brandyclassics have carefully selected a number of A.E. Dor’s superior vintage cognacs for sale on our online store.

 

The Brandy Bottle – Ragnaud Sabourin, Paradis

Perhaps it is because the cognac producing region is relatively small that it is also rather incestuous. Like many cognac producers, the history of Ragnaud Sabourin and its distant relatives who are only just around the corner is colourful.

Family matters though have not prevented Ragnaud Sabourin identifying a quantity of cognacs hidden in a corner of their cellars from 1903. They have bottled it  (but it has to be said, in the cheapest bottles made) and put it into a presentation box. It is as well that we do not score the presentation!

That aside what is in the bottle is nothing less than historic  with lots of complex floral aromas and a delightful orange marmalade citrus and fresh walnut rancio which is immediately apparent. This is one of our greats and a truly remarkable cognac.

Our score 9.5/10

What does VSOP and XO Cognac mean?

Perhaps the most confusing aspect facing shoppers seeking a decent bottle of cognac is the use of generic terms such as VS, VSOP and XO. The big cognac houses such as Hennessy, Martel, Courvoisier and others use these to describe their highly blended cognacs. These big negoçiants buy their cognacs from around 5000 small producers and blend them together. Often, these blends may contain as many as 2000 different cognacs from individual producers.

The rules governing cognac are many, but essentially it must be double distilled and the final distillation must be between 67 to 72 degrees (alcohol by volume). It can take several decades for the strength to drop naturally to that which most of us drink cognac, 40 degrees. This natural process is by evaporation, the lost alcohol being known as ‘Part des Anges’, the ‘Angel’s Share’. To avoid waiting and to minimise cost, the negoçiants will dilute the young cognacs, often adding sugar syrup and caramel. These additives give colour and soften the fiery effects. In contrast cognacs that have aged naturally develop richer qualities and greater individuality of their flavours.

To set standards of ageing in the wood, the big negoçiants created the terms that we see on the High Street shelves, VS (Very Special) Cognac, VSOP (Very Special Old Pale) Cognac and Napoleon Cognac. Cognacs must be aged in oak barrels and although distillation is not allowed after 31st March, it is usually finished by around Christmas. Official ageing starts immediately after the last official distillation day, i.e 1st April. VS cognacs must age in wood for a minimum of 2 years, VSOP cognacs for 3 years and Napoleon cognacs for 6 years. In practice most houses keep their cognacs in wood rather longer than the minimum period.

Technically XO Cognac  does not have any legal additional age requirements to that of Napoleon Cognac. The term “XO” was created about half a century ago by Hennessy to describe their oldest cognacs. In those days it usually meant cognacs with an average (not minimum), age of around 25 years. Today regrettably, with the pressure on sales volumes most XO cognacs are rather less than 10 years old.

VSOP  Cognacs from Brandyclassics:

At Brandyclassics, we specialise in selling single producer Cognacs, and hence attach rather less importance to the generic terms such as VSOP and XO, and more on the “age statements” and the talents of the individual distillers. However that doesn’t mean to say that you can’t buy VSOP Cognacs from us. We’ve a range of exceptional VSOP Cognacs from the smaller, quality cognac producers – they’re aren’t necessarily more expensive than the big brands, but we’re sure you’ll find they have a much more distinct character and flavour. Here’s a few suggestions for you…

XO  Cognacs from Brandyclassics:

We have a number of excellent XO Cognacs from smaller artisan cognac producers, not the faceless brands such as Remy Martin, Courvoisier, Hine and Martell and Hennessy. XO Cognacs are often bought as gifts by our customers, add we’d like to encourage you to buy a Cognac that’s as unique as the person you’re buying it for…

Did You Know? Brandy and St Bernard Alpine Rescue Dogs

There are 135 official mountain rescue dogs in the Swiss canton of Valais. The St Bernard story began in the year 962 when Bernard of Menthon founded a monastery and hospice in the Swiss Alps. The monastery, situated at 8000 ft was on a route over the Alps from France to Italy and in a particularly treacherous spot, where the monks were able to provide shelter for lost or injured travellers.

By the time Bernard was canonised in 1681, the monastery he founded had started to keep dogs, which the monks found helpful in carrying out their rescue missions. They bred a type of dog that was particularly suited to the harsh weather conditions. It was a huge, energetic, friendly and faultlessly loyal type of Mastiff, with thick fur and a keen sense of smell and hearing. From the 17th century, when the oldest records were identified, through to now, the animals have rescued more than 2500 people.

The monks provided each dog with a barrel around its neck containing brandy, as it was critical to provide a warming drink as soon as possible. The dogs were first referred to informally as St Bernards in 1833 and the name became official in 1880. It has been reported recently that due to the harsh economic climate, the traditional brandy barrel around the dogs neck has been replaced with a Nespresso coffee machine which offers a choice of espresso or  black coffee. The makers also wanted to include a cappuccino option but they had problems with the wind – plus it looked as though the dogs were rabid.

Whilst avalanche victims may have limited options, you might think twice before attracting a 100 kg animal foaming at the mouth! So if you are going on a winter skiing vacation this Christmas, do make sure you take your own bottle of Hermitage Cognac – strictly for emergencies of course!

 

How to make Armagnac – Serving and enjoying

Right from the 15th century, the English Kings have come and gone from the armagnac producing region we know as Gascony. The is near perfect for the production of the wines and brandies which have been enjoyed and shipped all over the world. The fruitier flavours than those from the cognac region to the north, and the slightly coarser qclimateualities of armagnac have created a uniqueness that cannot be rivalled anywhere else in the world. The lower distillation range and use of the vertical plate stills, whereby only a single distillation is necessary, is suited well to the fruitier Folle Blanche and Baco grape varieties.  It is not for nothing that the flavours of plums and prunes are characteristic of the brandies so loved by the region’s peoples. It is quoted in the records in Auch in 1441 as “distilled spirit relieves pain, keeps one young and brings with it joy and relaxation”. Oh what joy!

So it comes with no great surprises that understanding the nature of the spirit and its enormously varied character, that we can both enjoy it ourselves and also pass our knowledge on to others. Remember first and foremost that it is a spirit. It is in most cases supplied at 40% abv,  having been aged in oak casks for many years, even decades. Although we may choose to mix white armagnac’s with a range of other drinks, adding anything, including water to an armagnac will destroy its balance and contaminate its unique fruitiness, destroying the qualities created over the centuries by skills and experience by the Armagnaçais.

Like cognacs, and for that matter any other spirits, the glass is all important. The tulip glass is favoured with all the great  French spirit producers. Pour a quantity into the glass and gently roll it around so that all of the sides are coated in the nectar. Never swirl it, as this will release the strong alcohols, blinding the aroma. Remember that half the enjoyment of the brandy is in the smell. Allow it to stand for a short while before bringing it to the nose to detect the prune aromas. Taste the spirit and allow it to reach all parts of the mouth, particularly the back of the tongue.

How to make Armagnac – The changing ages

Armagnacs, as we have discovered earlier, are distilled at a lower range than the cognacs made a couple of hundred miles to the north, and for some reason the alcoholic strength seems to diminish more slowly than does cognac. The barrels have traditionally come from the local forest of Monlezun which locals believe have emphasised the heaviness of the spirit, which comes from a combination of both the soil and grape varieties. Due to the shortage of the local Gascon oak, producers have been forced to experiment with the cognac woods from both the Limousin and Tronçais forests. This has led to some head shaking, but analyses show that there is no great difference between the three types.

The newly distilled spirits are usually put into new oak barrels for up to a year, to give them a quick fix of tannin from the oak before they are shipped into older barrels. The process of maturation is of course similar to that of cognac – but the final character of the spirit depends less on the lignin and vanillin in the wood than it does on the more neutral spirit from Cognac. The terroir, the warmth, the fruity, almost herbal earthiness comes through more strongly in armagnac, reducing the importance of the rancio which is so necessary in good cognacs. Unfortunately so too does the woodiness. Production has always been a peasant based industry and some of the older armagnacs have been kept for far too long in barrels. However this is a somewhat esoteric consideration for the average armagnac buyer who may buy only 5-10 year old spirits. Those that have matured more than 20 years in cask provide the very essence of the spirit, many will have a vintage date largely because of the premium price they will fetch. The actual year of most old armagnacs seems to be not overly relevant and there are many vintages dating from 1888.

This is one of the joys of armagnac. It is the least industrial of the great spirits, the one where amateurs can most legitimately hope to find a little known bottle which they can cherish, because it offers unique qualities not found even in the next cask in the cellar from which it came.

How to make Armagnac – The stills and maturation

The armagnac still in its most used current form is a relatively recent invention, first perfected by a local peasant known as Verdier, who gave it it’s name in the 19th century. Rather like cognac, a super heater is used to warm the wine before it passes into the top of the still, to pass down over the plates until it reaches the bottom one. The spirit rises back to the top and is passed back to the condenser or super heater where it passes through coils, warming the wine as it goes. It is of course a very efficient way of turning wine into brandy.

Armagnac is such an awkward raw material, needing such careful handling after distillation, that the conditions in which it matures and perhaps more importantly, the age at which it is sold, matter more than any other brandy. Armagnacs made in the traditional way, with the lower than cognac distillation range, will retain more of the character of the original wine. There is however a price to pay. The richness consists of impurities which are unappetizingly raw for a longer time than spirit distilled by other methods. In the past, long maturation was necessary because the old stills were rarely cleaned, which increased the impurities in the spirit and the potential richness. A spirit for drinking in less that seven or eight years in wood, must be distilled to a much higher degree than is possible in a small old fashioned mobile still. Indeed many of these old spirits are incomparable – but only as they have been kept for perhaps thirty or forty years in oak barrels.

Unfortunately, armagnacs can be sold even younger than cognac, at a mere 18 months of age. In the 1960’s this created a price over quality battle, and many armagnacs were sold far too young (some as little as three or four years old). Regulation changes made in 1972 allowed the use of the Cognac. A few of the bigger houses installed the cognac stills, which requires the spirit to be distilled at a higher range than is traditional. It soon became clear that the cognac method of distillation was perfectly suitable for armagnacs destined to be sold young and whilst some people find these new spirits acceptable, most still prefer the more traditional spirits produced by the traditional methods. But the Armagnaçaise are cautious people and were wary of using other methods for cheaper brands, as Armagnacs distilled in this way taste rather harsh on the palate, short and not as complex as the “real thing”.

The variations in distillation styles have inevitably confused some customers. The Scandinavians, who are good customers for the cheaper armagnacs, reject the new style spirits, preferring the wider variation in flavours between armagnacs and cognac. The existence of a rival system spurred the traditional distillers into finding ways of improving their formulae. The first problem was to reduce the queues, the heavy and low strength aroma products. They can be filtered out on the distillation column by introducing a condenser above the still, or by adding more plates above which the wine flows. All these adjustments, combined with increasing the strength of the new armagnac to between 66 and 68 percent – close to that of raw cognac – reduce the quintessential richness of the spirit but do make it more commercial. Interestingly, some of the bigger houses have refused to move down this line and armagnac sales from these houses have improved.

Armagnacs are usually stored after distillation in new oak barrels of around 400 litres. The process accelerates the process of oxidation. For reasons the locals find difficult to explain, the alcoholic strength of armaganac diminishes more slowly in cask than does cognac.