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Numbers on Bottles (Age Statements) -The value in the bottle

Throughout drinking history the age of a bottle’s content has always been contentious, in particular for wines and spirits where age can represent a substantial part of the bottle value. Defining the age of a cognac has, for the vast majority of companies, become all but impossible as they have to buy and blend as many as 3000 different cognacs to meet their sales requirements. To clarify the situation, a set of rules was created by the governing body of cognac, the Bureau National Interprofessionel de Cognac (BNIC). They require cognacs to be aged in oak casks for a specific period of time in order to fall into one of three categories. The youngest is the VS where cognacs must have been aged for more than two years before bottling. The second category is called VSOP where cognacs need to be more than 4 years old and the third category is Napoleon and XO, both of which must be more than 6 years old.

But cognac ages very slowly, especially when stored in the ideal conditions for the spirit, and it is this ageing process that gives it both colour and taste.  Perhaps even more significant is that depending on the region or cru where it is aged, some cognacs can take three or four times longer to acquire an acceptable quality. Cognacs from the Champagnes (Grande and Petit Champagne) may take as long as 50 to 80 years to reach the desired level of maturity and quality.  They have to be distilled at 70 degrees in the final distillation so the subsequent reduction in strength can be very slow and the flavour take time to develop. Additives are widely used by the big houses to improve the colour and to reduce the fiery nature of young spirits.

At Brandyclassics our policy is to only buy cognacs where we know the age and where, particularly with young cognacs, the flavour is not impaired by their youthful aging. We refer to ages, for example a 10 year old where the cognac has been aged in an oak cask for 10 years, and vintages, for example 1975 where the cognac was made in that year and can be any number of years old up to the bottling date. Once the cognac has been bottled, or in the case of some very old ones stored in bonbonnes for later bottling, the quality and taste of each cognac will not change, unless the cork is left out for a considerable period.

Of course, the value of the bottle of cognac with an age statement depends on a number of factors. Firstly, where the cognac comes from, if it is from the top cru, Grande Champagne then it will usually be of greater value than one from a lower cru, say Fins Bois or Bon Bois. Secondly, if the cognac is very old, it will have aged in cellars for a long time and that is expensive. Lastly, many vintage cognacs are in very short supply, particularly those that were made in the early 19th century.   For example where the cognac is very rare and has a story attached to it such as the Massougnes 1801 and 1805, the value can easily be between £10,000 and £150,000.  However, it is worth noting that with some younger cognacs the age of the cognac may be well short of the period between the date and the vintage on the bottle. So when buying old cognacs always try and establish the actual barrel age.  Hermitage Cognacs will always have a bottling date on the back label so that you can be sure how old the cognac is.

A Few Good Armagnac Houses – No 1 Castarède

The firm  Castarède is naturally proud of being the oldest business in Armagnac. They were founded in 1832 by Jules Nismes at the suggestion of a young subprefect, who later became famous as the Baron Haussmann who replanned Paris for the Emperor Napoleon III. The firm was sited at the furthest point  to which the River Baise is navigable and provides direct access to Bordeaux down the River Garonne.

The firm is still owned by the Castarède family, who are also proprietors of the picturesque Château de Maniban at Mauléon d’Armagnac. The Maniban family were members of the legal aristocracy, the noblesse de la robe, who played such an important role in developing Bordeaux’s fine wine estates. They were the first to introduce armagnac to the court of Louis XV and have been associated in the past with many names of the rich and famous.

The firm is not a distiller, it buys its armagnacs exclusively from the Bas Armagnac, most of which were distilled between 1900 and 2000. They keep them in wood until they have reduced naturally to 40%, before transferring them to glass bonbonnes without additives.

Their cellars are at Pont-de-Bordes, Lavardac balancing on the side of a high ridge over the river and create a picturesque view. Florence Castarède is the charming and current family owner of the firm and she has created a range of vintages which is the mainstay of the business today. Most of her armagnacs have been distilled mid range and have flavours of crystallised fruit.

The Brandy Bottle – Hermitage 1914 Borderies

It is perhaps something of a rare treat to find a Borderies cognac, let alone a decent Borderies cognac. Most of the nutty and rich toffee eaux de vie are snapped up by Martell and Hennessy, who have always tried to get all there is from this tiny cru.

Some of the cognacs produced here are legendary with their dark toffee and nutty flavours. The soil here has a more clay type structure with a shale layer, but the climate is probably more temperate than the Champagnes.

The Hermitage 1914 Borderies Cognac has aged in oak for more than 70 years and is now in bonbonnes safely stored in our cellars. The cognac has been reduced by about 1.5% and now has a strength of 44.3% and will be bottled at that. It is a little spicy, has a rancio and long powerful tones. We love this rare cognac. Our score 8/10

 

Hermitage 1914 Borderies Cognac

Cognac Masters 2012 – Master Award

This exceptionally rare and sought after cognac was found in an old cellar to the north of Cognac. We were lucky in obtaining a complete bonbonne for bottling. Just don’t hang about, this is not going to last.

“My most prized bottle is a 1914 Cognac Hermitage Borderies which has an incredible spectrum of flavours, from toffee to walnuts.” Olly Smith, Journalist & TV Presenter

Recent Find of Rare Cognacs

Visiting France again last week to locate more vintage cognacs, we were delighted to have found a number of exceptionally fine brandies. Top of our list is a seventy year old cognac from the region around Juillac la Coq. There is not a large quantity, some sixty litres in all, but it is exceptionally rare and we expect to be able to obtain at least half of it, which we are hoping to be sold as a special presentation.

We have also identified a fabulous 2002 vintage with an aroma and flavour of clover honey. This cognac is at over 60% and will have to be brought down, but we still feel that despite having to wait over a year for it to come down to around 50% alc it is worth waiting for. Indeed we will probably have to bring it down more to around 45-47% for it to be at its best.

Another cognac which requires some modest dilution is a very rare 1914 Borderies Cognac – this has a wonderful old toffee and roast walnut aroma and taste, it should be ready in about three months for drinking and will be a winner. We have one bonbonne of it at present but there are two more, so here’s hoping!

We have recently sold our last bottle of 1900 and were also pleased to obtain a further bonbonne from around Cognac. It is at 44.3% but we feel that this is about the right strength for the brandy and is available now.

Hermitage 1900 and 1914 Rare Vintage Cognacs – discovered in old cellars

During a visit to Cognac last week we have been lucky enough to find two old bonbonnes of rare cognac. Each bonbonne holds the equivalent of about 42 bottles and some will be decanted into bottles next month.

The first container is a rare 1900 cognac which we have found with the help of one of our suppliers; it has an extremely traditional Grande Champagne style and taste and is ready for bottling now.

The second comes from the area now known as Borderies and is a 1914 vintage. This is the third cru of Cognac and is famous for producing extremely nutty and toffee style cognacs, this being very typical of the cru. This cognac requires a small level of stabilisation and should be ready for bottling in about 3 months time. The Hermitage 1914 Borderies, Vieux Quartiers will soon be available to buy online through our website, so watch out!

Brandyclassics constantly seek out the highest quality rare vintage cognacs for our discerning customers. Hermitage Cognacs, available exclusively from Brandyclassics, are pure cognacs made without the need for sugar or caramel additives common in mass market blended cognacs. Very specific distillation qualities and long, careful ageing in oak casks are what creates our award winning cognacs…

The Good & Great Cognac Houses- A E Dor

The house of A.E. Dor was created In 1858 by Amédée Edourard Dor, a collector of fine old cognacs mainly from the Grande Champagne area. The cognacs were bought in their casks and aged in Dors cellars until they were deemed ready for drinking and then stored in large bonbonnes, where their quality remained intact.

The house is situated in Jarnac, about 13 km east of Cognac. They have recently moved into a new purpose built warehouse, but they still retain their old Paradis in the town where some of the finest of their cognacs are stored. The Paradis is probably one of the best know pictures in the Charente and its wrought iron gates protect many demi-johns of fine old cognacs. Probably their most venerable cognac is the 1805 (which they refuse to sell), but one of the nicest is the 1840 which still retains much richness and flavour even though it is only 37% by volume.

There have been a number of names associated with the firm including the brother of the ex President of France, François Mitterand, a cognac lover and purveyor of the spirit. The house survives on it’s range of blended cognacs and is today owned by Jacques Riviere, a fervent believer of blending who took over the running of the firm from his wife, Odile.  She was sadly killed in a motor accident in the early 1990s and was regarded as one of the finest blenders in the industry. Unfortunately since then some of the blending has not been the same quality as those of the pre Odile days, but some of the older A.E. Dor cognacs, namely the Hors d’Age No 9 and the remaining pre-phylloxera vintages still remain in the original condition, as well as a remarkably good VSOP, an 8 year old cognac with remarkable freshness. Jacques Riviere is still the firms president but much is now done by his son.

Brandyclassics have carefully selected a number of A.E. Dor’s superior vintage cognacs for sale on our online store.

 

Hermitage 1917 Grande Champagne Cognac

We were lucky in finding this cognac. It was in a 30 litre bonbonne and had been stored in an old cellar for many years. It is an exceedingly fine cognac from the period but regrettably the house no longer exists so this will be the last of this vintage from this house.